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What About Sunscreens?
We’ve come a long way since the days when it was common to apply baby oil to our skin and lay out at the beach or pool with aluminum reflectors to help us achieve that prized bronze tan. What could we have possibly been thinking? Nowadays the sun’s rays are well understood to be a major cause of skin cancers and premature aging. That beautiful, sexy tan has turned into leathery, spotted and wrinkled skin—if only we had known.
The sun is so damaging to the skin because light is energy. And the ultraviolet light that we are exposed to is like being showered with “bullets” of energy particles that destroy the very DNA of our cells, and it also creates free radicals that cause irreparable damage to the skin. It also breaks down elastin and collagen in the deeper part of our skin, destroying the very fibers which create youthful skin.
UVA and UVB wavelengths. The sun’s ultraviolet light is composed of both UVA and UVB wavelengths. We’re most aware of UVB, which is what causes the redness of sunburn. But UVA is a much larger part of the exposure we get from sunlight—and because we’re exposed to so much more of it—it’s even more dangerous. And to make things worse, UVA is not blocked by glass, so even if you’re “inside” but have a work desk with a view, or a skylight, or are driving, you are getting significant ultraviolet light exposure all day long.
SPF Number. Sunscreens are rated by the SPF number, its “sun protection factor.” The higher the number the better. But don’t be fooled—the SPF rating only refers to how well it protects against UVB and sunburn. An SPF of 15—which is what is found in most make-up—will presumably protect you 15 times longer than if you had no protection on at all. The SPF 15 works by blocking out about 93% of the UVB rays; an SPF of 30 protects you twice as long by blocking out 97%; but an SPF of 50 only blocks out 98% of harmful factors. However, if you are fair skinned with blue or green eyes, it only takes 2–4% of the UVB rays at noon to cause a burn, so beware! And, if you’re Asian or Hispanic or African American, you need protection also; you will get darker and darker, and develop the brown facial “mask” and spotting, known as melasma, from excess sun exposure.
What to look for. It’s a MUST that it block both UVA and UVB, and should be rated at least to an SPF of 30. To block out the UVA rays, most products will contain the physical blockers zinc or titanium oxide, or the chemical absorber avobenzone. And now, with the ability to micronize these agents, they go on without causing that white faded look.
Application. The best time to apply a sunscreen is about 20-30 minutes before you go out in the sun. That way it will be properly absorbed and ready to protect your skin. And just how much should we use? A lot more than we do! Generally the face and neck, (and don’t forget your ears) require at least a ½ teaspoon, not the few drops that we commonly use. The remaining skin, chest, arms, hands, and exposed legs require about an additional 2 tablespoons. As for reapplying sunscreen, do so every 2 hours, or after swimming or any exercise that creates sweating. And don’t forget, you need to wear sunscreen all year long. The goal is to stay protected.
And what else can you do? Consider limiting your sun exposure, especially between the hours of 10 am – 2 pm. Also, how about trying one of those fashionable wide brimmed hats, or one with the “tail” that covers the back of the neck. Go ahead, take a risk, be stylish, set your own trend. Also there is a whole array of sun protective clothing that is rated with a 30+ SPF, as well as UVA protection, that “lasts and lasts, even after 500 washes!”
Vitamin D. Remember that our bodies make Vitamin D from exposure to the sun, it’s important to supplement with a Vitamin D3 product, generally between 800-2000 IU a day (and best taken with food). Vitamin D is important for calcium absorption and good bone health, and recent studies are demonstrating its importance in cancer prevention and general well being.
Tanning salons? So, what to do if you’re committed to having that tanned look? Please, don’t use a tanning salon. They simply are not safe. The light that they use is UVA. It’s true that it tans without the burn, but you are exposing yourself to a major risk factor for future skin cancers and aging. Consider the spray-on or roll-on tanning products, they have improved significantly over time, and you can get a very complimentary color effect that will have you looking great for that special event.
By now, I hope you’re convinced about the importance of both UVA and UVB sun protection, and are committed to applying the right amount of a good quality sun screen every day. It’s the best insurance you have for a lifetime of healthy, youthful and beautiful skin.
Dr. Andrew Wagner, MD, is the Medical Director of Dimitra’s Skin Care and MediSpa, located at 324 West Portal Ave., 415-731-8080. He offers free skin care consultations. He performs laser therapy treatments for skin rejuvenation and hair removal, body contouring and cellulite treatments, and offers expertise in botox and dermal fillers as well. Dimitra’s also offers a full array of aesthetic skin care services, including peels, facials, waxing, spray on tanning, and massage therapy, as well as a medical quality skin care cosmeceuticals.
September 2009
